The Sunday Times, 16 April 2006, Dara Flynn reports:
When it comes to food culture, John McKenna, author of the Bridgestone Guides, thinks Ireland is like a wonky oven. "If you ever ask yourself what happened when your cheese souffle comes out underdone, it`s because there`s a cold spot. It it`s burnt, that`s your oven`s hot spot. That`s how Ireland is, " he says.
If fine food, restaurants and wine are important to your lifestyle, the area where you live should be perfectly palatable. So where does the gourmande`s homehunting trail begin?
McKenna, who is also a food industry consultant, has collaborated with the Sunday Times to produce a foodie homebuyers` guide to Ireland, identifying the hot spots for gastronomes, as well as the chilly zones gourmets should avoid.
He and his wife, Sally, have been touring Ireland for the past 15 years, writing the renowned Bridgestone Guides, whose coveted plaques adorn the best premises in the country. He believes a few basic ingredients can create the perfect backdrop for a hearty food culture.
"When you`re talking about an area`s food culture, you`re talking about quality of life generally," he says. "You should be looking for a cluster of certain things in any one area: a good farmers` market, a good butcher, a baker and a deli of some kind."
Here are his 10 recommendations-some of which will come as a surprise to readers, and which prove that for bons vivants on the move, there`s more to Ireland than west Cork and Dublin.
Nenagh, Co. Tipperary
Average house price: €225,000
One of the blue ribands on McKenna`s list goes to a town more famous for jokes about the sound of its name than for any kind of culinary brilliance. "You`d never think of a town like Nenagh, at first glance, as a place for good food culture," says McKenna, "but if you bypass it, you need your head examined."
Nenagh is will known in food circles for Country Choice, a cafe/deli run by Peter Ward.
"That place's presence is worth a gazillion dollars for the area's food scene," says McKenna. Ward is a leading cheese expert, a baker and an expert sourcer of local produce , specialist foods and wine. Nenagh also has a good vegetable shop, two old-style butchers and a fine country market.
West Co Waterford
Average house price: €250,000
The second surprise on our list is west Co. Waterford, incorporating Dungarvan and its environs. The Tannery is here-one of the top six restaurants in the country, according to McKenna, as well as Richmond House and Barron's Bakery in Cappoquin, plus a selection of good butchers in various small towns.
Waterford town
Average house price: €255,000
While Waterford town has never been strongly identified with fine food, McKenna cites enough places worth sampling to win it a generous foodie's tip. "Its 33 restaurant is wonderful, as is Coast in Tramore. Then you have JB's on Dunmore Road, run by an Amish community, who make the best chocolate brownies in the world. There's also La Bodega, a raucous, fun food bar, and La Boulangerie, a really good bakery." In Tramore, McKenna raves about Cunningham's, the old-style fish-an-chip shop, as well as Worldwide Wines, which he describes as one of the three best stockists in the country.
Co. Offaly
Average house price: €255,000
Another shocker among the top 10 is Offaly, which has some of the cheapest house prices in Ireland. Birr is strong on organic produce, with the exceptional organic store and pleanty of good producers. Tullamore has Wild Harvest and Glenisk, a big organic brand. Offaly has no restaurants to speak of, "but if it gets three or four more good shops, it will build a reputation", says McKenna.
Galway city
Average house price: €257,250
One of Galway's main attractions is its farmers' market. The city also has Sheridan's Cheesemongers, a must for epicureans. For newcomers, McKenna suggests a tour of the best of Galway's culinary delights. "start early at the market to get the best veg," he says. "Then head to Griffin's Bakery and the Galway Tart Company, then go to Morton's or McCambridge's supermarkets. Galway is good because it has managed to support its market and has developed organically as a food destination."
Kenmare, Co Kerry
Average house price: €290,000
Kenmare, says McKenna, is currently the gourmet capital of Ireland, achieving the country's highest standards. He cites the Park hotel, Mulcahy's, Packie's, a range of interesting wholefood shops and its weekly market.
West Wicklow
Average house price: €312,500
"The country market in Kiltiernan is the daddy of all markets," says McKenna. In this region, he also recommends Sweetbank Farm in Newcastle, BrookLodge, the Grangecon Cafe, Sinnott's butchers in Rathdrum and Farrelly's, a butcher in Delgany.
The Ballymore Inn, just across the border in Co Kildare, is also tipped. Wicklow town, he says, is less appetising. "There, you have the Wicklow Wine Company, but nowhere to eat. Inland Wicklow is better than the coast."
Cork city
Average house price: €325,000
There's one real reason why Cork city is referred to as Ireland's food capital: the old English Market, a building dating to 1786 that is packed Monday to Saturday with stalls selling local and speciality produce.
"In an ideal world, all supermarkets would be like the English Market and some day, someone in Dublin will have to do this," says McKenna. Among its best offerings are O'Connell''s ("the best fish counter in Ireland"), Mr. Bell's Asian store and Heaven's Cakes, a patisserie.
Cork city also has a number of good restaurants; Jacque's, Cafe Paradiso and Jacob's on the Mall.
"What Cork does best is in the midmarket range, like in Idaho Cafe and Isaacs. Dublin is weak in the midmarket range-you can't get a half of great pizza and a glass of wine before the cinema. In Cork, you can do that."
West Cork
Average house price: €289,000
Many housebuyers in west Cork pay dearly for well-located property, but there are plenty of eats to console gourmet buyers. For markets, check our Bantry on Fridays and Skibbereen on Saturdays. Bandon is notable for Carey's Butchers and Urru, while Midleton has a fine market, butcher and a fish shop.
Although west Cork is known for its culinary reputation, its notable eateries are dispersed, because of the area's sheer size.
"The reputation in west Cork is built on powerful artisan brands that got in first-Gubbeen cheese, for example, is already into its second generation. But you have to drive a bit to get to good places. Our local in Durrus, Good Things Cafe, is great, but the next really good place is 40 miles away."
At the gateway to west Cork is Kinsale, the hotly disputed gourmet capital that has been losing ground to Kenmare, Co Kerry. However, McKenna says Kinsale is coming back to the boil. Among its top places are Cocina and the Fishy Fishy Cafe. "If, when you get there, they say it's a 20-minute wait for a table, expect to wait 45. It's simple, astonishing , brilliant fish," says McKenna.
South Dublin
Average house price: €713,000
McKenna remains baffled by the fact that Dublin's food identity lies mainly south of the river. But he compliments its retention of non-franchised, European-style eateries while other big cities, such as London, have been forced to embrace chains.
There are no fewer than 42 listings in the Bridgestone Guides to this part of Dublin, as well as a huge range of good delis. Notable establishments namechecked include Mackerel, the Mermaid Cafe, Town, Listons, Avoca Cafe and the new Fallon & Byrne deli.
